Sweet surrender crystal mine is producing some beautiful
crystals but there are several crystals that are coated in a very heavy iron and limonite. To clean it efficiently we
have learned to how to use Muratic Acid. Muratic Acid is pretty nasty stuff. If you use it, use as a last resort
and follow all directions and precautions. Do not use near or with anything metal, please where a mask and chemical
gloves.
The following was written by Stuart Schmitt
Cleaning crystal is a three step process. First the clay must be washed off the crystal. Second,
the iron oxide film coating is removed in an oxalic acid bath. And last, the oxalic acid is washed off the crystal with fresh
water. Sounds simple, but there are many ways to do each step depending on the type of crystal (points or clusters) and the
quantity you have to clean.
Washing the clay off the crystal is not always as easy as it sounds, especially with clusters.
Points are fairly easy to rinse with a garden hose. I do not recommend doing it in your kitchen sink because the clay can
plug up your sink traps and plumbers are more expensive than your crystal. Most clusters have small cracks and crevices filled
with clay. A pressure washer works best to flush out the clay. You can let the clusters dry in the sun for a couple days after
washing to shrink the clay and pressure wash again. This process may have to be repeated several times. The cleaner the crystal
the more effective the acid bath. Trapped clay prevents the oxalic acid from removing the iron film in that spot. The clay
and iron oxide will also turn your acid green and eventually reduce its effectiveness. So do not rush the process and remove
as much clay as possible before putting the crystal in acid.
Oxalic acid can be purchased in powder form at most drug stores, cleaning supply houses or rock
shops. Prices will vary with quantity but expect to pay $2 to $4 per pound. Mix the oxalic acid with fresh water. The recommended
mixture varies from one pound oxalic to two gallons of water up to one pound per five gallons of water. I use one pound per
two gallons water. If you see funny green crystals growing in your solution you know you have added more oxalic than can dissolve
in the water, you're saturated. This will not hurt anything, it just looks funny. Now you have to decide how fast you want
to remove the iron oxide film off your crystal. If you are not in a hurry, you can let them soak in a plastic bucket in the
sun for several days. If you are in a hurry you need to heat the acid. I do not recommend building a fire under your plastic
bucket. An old crock pot works fine for the smaller crystals. Half of a fifty gallon drum will work for the bigger crystal.
Set the drum on cement blocks and build a wood fire under it for a few hours. You can also use a propane burner to heat the
acid. I do not recommend cooking your crystal on your kitchen stove and do not put oxalic acid in aluminum pans. The oxalic
acid should be heated in a well ventilated area and wear rubber gloves if you stick your hands in the acid or OSHA might get
you. And be sure to neutralize your acid with baking soda, lime, or ashes from your fireplace before disposing of it.
When you remove the crystal from the acid you should wash it thoroughly with fresh water. I
use a pressure washer to help remove any clay residue. If you're not satisfied with the results, repeat steps one through
three. I've had to clean small, needle point clusters as many as six times before I was satisfied with them. Some clusters
have trapped clay that cannot be removed except with a hammer. You can get them clean this way but they do not look very nice
when you're done.
Trick - The porous sandstone base of some clusters will turn green in dirty, hot oxalic acid.
When the sandstone gets hot the pores expand and open allowing the acid to penetrate. When the sandstone cools the pores will
close trapping the acid and turning the sandstone green. One method of removing the green color is to re-heat the clusters
in acid to open the pores, and while still warm, put them in warm soap water (dish washing soap works fine) to soak for several
days in the sun. The soap water will neutralize the acid turning the sandstone base back to its normal color. It's best
to use clean, fresh acid when cleaning clusters that have a sandstone base.
Another way to clean sandstone base clusters is to heat the clusters in clean water before putting
them in the acid bath. This will open the pores an fill them with water. Then, when you heat the clusters in acid, the acid
cannot penetrate the water filled sandstone. Soaking sandstone base clusters in cold (non-heated) acid for several days will
also prevent most of the green problem.
For small crystal cleaning jobs you can use a product called "Iron Out". Iron Out is used
to remove rust stains from sinks, bath tubs and toilets. Millard wrote, "Hello again, -- We had a lot of trouble finding
oxalic acid in this part of the world, so we cleaned our crystals with a compound called "Iron Out" which is a bisulfate cleaner
sold at Home Depot. It is normally used to remove iron stains from porcelain or water softeners, and is fairly cheap--about
$3.90 for 18 oz. of powder. It was quick and did a very good job. We used about 3 TBS per cup of water and cleaned
a few points at a time. Don't know how it compares to oxalic, but our finished points look good. One bottle did
our bucket full."
If you use Muratic Acid, leave in the acid for a day or depending on the thickness of the iron
a week or more. Remove the crystals from the acid and place in water. Baking soda or soda ash will neutralize
the acid on the crystals. If there is still iron and/or limonite on the crystal then place back in the acid. You
may find that the water will take the yellow out of the crystal. I like to leave mine in water for at least and hour
to overnight, then place the crystal in oxalic acid.
You may find that old colenders, butter bowls, plastic ice cream buckets (any thing plastic
or ceramic) or anything that you WILL not ever use except to clean crystals with will come in handy.